Kenmore Elite Ice Maker Repair

Let's face it, no one likes to run out of ice cubes.

If you are looking for help repairing your Kenmore Elite ice maker, Sears Home Services offers professional appliance repair services near you.

Depending on which Kenmore Elite ice machine model you have, general appliance mechanics may not be able to help. Sears Home Services has expert technicians who can repair ice machines by Kenmore Elite and most other major brands.

Here are the common problems that we encounter with Kenmore Elite ice makers.

Machine Won't Turn On

• The first thing we check when a Kenmore Elite ice maker's completely dead - is it actually plugged in properly? Sounds dumb, but we can't tell you how many service calls end with us just pushing the power cord plug in all the way. These things can vibrate a bit during operation, and plugs can work loose.

• Circuit breakers trip sometimes too. These units pull a decent amount of power, especially during the freezing cycle. If you've got other kitchen gadgets running on the same circuit, sometimes it's just too much. Check your breaker panel - sometimes breakers look ON when they're actually half-tripped. Flip it fully off then back on to be sure.

• Power switches on these units sometimes fail. Some Kenmore Elite ice makers have a power switch on the back or underneath. Other models have a switch on the control panel. It’s worth checking if the power switch is on when your ice maker is completely dead.

• Control boards can die after being hit by power surges. We had a customer last week whose ice maker wouldn't power up after a lightning storm. We checked everything else and finally had to pull the control panel and found a fried circuit board. Using a whole-house surge protection system can prevent this type of failure.

• Wiring harness connections work loose from vibration. These machines vibrate when the pump runs and when ice drops. Over time, those connections can back out. Unplugging and resetting all the internal wire connectors fixes a surprising number of "dead" units. Just make sure you unplug the ice maker power cord from the wall outlet first!

Makes Ice Too Slowly

Slow ice production drives everybody nuts.

• First check your room temperature. These Kenmore Elite ice makers are rated for use in normal room temps around 70°F. Put one in a hot garage over 90°F and production drops by half or worse. They just can't dump heat efficiently in hot spaces.

• Condenser coils get dusty and can't release heat properly. Those coils are how the machine dumps heat from the freezing process. When they're caked with dust, everything runs hotter and less efficient. Most Kenmore models have the condenser either on the back or underneath. Vacuum them with a soft brush attachment every few months.

• Water supply restrictions slow everything down. Check if the water inlet valve screen is clogged with sediment. It's a little filter where the water line connects to the machine. Unscrew the water line (turn off water first!), and check for deposits or debris in that tiny screen. Clean or replace the valve if needed.

• Low water pressure from your home supply causes slow fills, meaning smaller ice batches. These need at least 20 PSI to work right. If your home has weak water pressure, the reservoir won't fill completely between cycles. Check other faucets - if pressure seems low everywhere, you likely need a plumber or your water supplier to fix this problem.

• Improper leveling causes all kinds of problems. If the machine isn't sitting level, water doesn't distribute properly across the evaporator plate, giving you partial batches and slower production. Use a bubble level across the top and adjust those feet until it's perfectly level in all directions.

Not Making Any Ice

When your Kenmore Elite runs but makes no ice at all, check if it's actually trying to freeze. See if any water is freezing on the evaporator plate.

• No water freezing on the evaporator plate means refrigeration system problems. An ice maker repair technician will need to fix this type of failure.

• Water inlet valves can fail. Listen for the distinctive buzz/click when the machine should be filling with water. No sound means the valve isn't getting power or has failed. They're usually located at the back near where the water line connects. Testing with a multimeter isn't hard if you're comfortable with basic electrical stuff. Unplug the ice maker before accessing and testing internal components.

• Float switches get stuck and the ice maker will detect that the reservoir is already full. Most models have a little plastic float in the water reservoir that shuts off the inlet when it reaches the right level. If it's stuck in the "up" position, no water comes in. Give it a gentle wiggle to free it up.

• Clogged water filters cause water starvation. Some Kenmore Elite models have internal water filters. When they clog up, not enough water makes it to the ice maker. Check your manual for filter location and replace if it's been more than 6 months.

• Thermistors fail and confuse the machine. These are temperature sensors that tell the control board how cold things are. When they fail, the machine doesn't know when to run the compressor or when to harvest ice. They look like little plastic beads attached to wires, usually pressed against the evaporator plate and ice bin.

Ice Cubes Are Too Small

Small, malformed cubes usually mean water problems.

• First check that enough water is actually getting into the unit. The reservoir should fill to the correct level mark. If it's consistently low, you've got water supply problems - either pressure, a restriction, or a control issue.

• Water inlet valve might be partially clogged or weak. They get mineral buildup that restricts flow over time. Sometimes cleaning helps, but they're fairly cheap to replace if needed. Look at the part where the water line connects and the valve body itself for any white crusty mineral deposits.

• The freezing cycle timing gets thrown off sometimes. If the machine harvests too quickly, cubes don't form completely. It could be a control board issue or temperature sensor problem. Some models have cycle time adjustments hidden in the control settings - check your manual for "cube size" or "cycle time" settings.

• Room temperature too high makes smaller cubes. The warmer the room, the harder the machine has to work. Above 80°F, many Kenmore Elites struggle to complete proper freeze cycles. Better ventilation around the unit or moving it to a cooler location helps.

• Scale buildup on the evaporator plate prevents good contact with water. Minerals from hard water build up on the freezing surface and act as insulators, preventing efficient freezing. Descaling with a manufacturer-approved solution (usually citric acid-based) often helps. Some models have self-cleaning cycles - check your manual.

Leaking Water

Water on the floor around your ice maker never makes anybody happy.

• Check the obvious first - is the drain hose properly positioned in your sink or drain pipe? These things produce condensation and need somewhere for it to go. Sometimes the drain hose just works its way out of position.

• Cracked internal water lines happen, especially if the machine's ever been through a freeze (like in a cold garage). Inspect all visible water lines for cracks or loose connections. They're usually clear plastic, so leaks leave obvious water tracks.

• Water inlet valves develop slow leaks as they age. Even when "off," they let a little water dribble through constantly. Look for mineral deposits or water stains around the valve body at the back of the machine - sure sign of a leaky valve.

• Drain pump failures cause water backup and overflow. If the pump can't move water out properly, eventually it finds its own way - usually onto your floor. Listen for the pump running during/after the harvest cycle. If it's running but not moving water, it's either blocked or failing.

Control Panel Problems

Unresponsive buttons frustrate everybody.

• First try the obvious reset - unplug the machine for a full 2 minutes, then plug back in. Sometimes the control board just needs a complete power reset to get back to normal. If the control board still doesn’t work, you’ll likely need to schedule appliance repair to fix the ice maker.

• Moisture behind the panel causes button failure. Moisture seeps behind the panel and corrodes the contacts. Sometimes they recover if left unplugged in a dry environment for a day or two. Otherwise, panel replacement is usually needed.

• Error codes tell you what's wrong if you know how to read them. Most Kenmore Elites flash specific patterns or display codes when something's wrong. Common ones include E1 (usually a thermistor/temperature sensor problem), E2 (control communication error), or E3 (water fill issues). Check your manual for the specific codes for your model.

*Display segments burning out happens gradually. Those LED or LCD displays lose segments over time, making numbers or letters look strange or incomplete. Not worth fixing just the display - usually means replacing the whole control panel assembly.

• Power fluctuations mess with electronics. If your home has brownouts or frequent power surges, it plays havoc with sensitive control boards. A good quality appliance surge protector can help prevent this problem.

Ice Tastes Bad

Bad-tasting ice ruins drinks faster than anything.

• The first suspect is always the water supply itself. Try making ice cubes in your freezer using the same water. If those taste fine, then it's something in the ice maker, not your water supply.

• New machines have a break-in period. Those first few batches often taste like plastic or have a chemical flavor from manufacturing residues. Dump the first 2-3 batches of ice and run a cleaning cycle if your model has one.

• Stale water in reservoirs causes stale ice. If the machine sits unused for weeks, that standing water picks up flavors from the plastic components. Dump all ice, drain completely if possible, and start fresh.

• Mold and bacteria grow in dark, damp places - exactly what you have in an ice maker. Regular cleaning prevents this. Many models have self-cleaning cycles, or you can use manufacturer-approved cleaning solutions. Avoid anything with harsh chemicals that might leave their own tastes behind.

• Old water filters cause bad tastes. If your model has a water filter and it's been in there too long, it actually starts releasing trapped contaminants back into the water. Replace filters every 6 months even if they don't seem "used up."

• Mineral scale buildup affects taste too. Those white deposits from hard water can impart metallic or chalky flavors. Descaling with approved solutions helps remove these deposits from all water-contact surfaces.

When to Call Someone

Some Kenmore Elite ice maker repairs go beyond typical DIY territory. Sealed refrigeration system problems - compressor issues, refrigerant leaks, or major blockages - need specialized tools and expertise. These components contain refrigerant under pressure that requires proper handling and EPA certification.

Electronic control systems sometimes need specialized diagnostic equipment. If you've tried basic troubleshooting and still have problems, a technician with proper testing tools can pinpoint the issue more efficiently.

Multiple problems happening together usually indicate a larger underlying issue that needs professional diagnosis. Sometimes what seems like three separate problems is actually one root cause affecting multiple systems.

We repair Kenmore Elite ice makers regularly and stock parts for models going back many years.

When a repair goes beyond your comfort level, our techs can handle it with the right tools and experience.