Amana Microwave Repair

We've fixed hundreds of Amana microwaves over the years and know these units inside and out.

While they're generally reliable appliances, every microwave develops issues eventually.

This guide covers the most common Amana microwave problems and walks you through fixing them yourself when possible.

Microwave Won't Power On

When your Amana sits there dead, start with the basics.

• Check your home's circuit breaker. Seems simple, but you wouldn't believe how many "dead" microwaves just needed a reset breaker. Amana microwaves, especially older models, can sometimes trip breakers when they first start up.

• Check the outlet next. Unplug the microwave and plug in something simple like a lamp to verify the outlet works. Some kitchen outlets sometimes have GFCI protection that trips independently from your main breaker panel. Look for a small reset button somewhere on that outlet or others nearby.

• Power cords develop problems, especially in over-the-range models where the cord gets bent against the wall. Inspect the entire cord for damage, burns, or kinks. Wiggle it gently at the base where it enters the microwave - any flickering of lights indicates a break in the cord.

• Door switches prevent operation when the door isn't completely closed. Amana uses multiple switches for safety. The door needs to trigger these switches in the right sequence or the microwave won't turn on. Listen for clicks when closing the door. No clicks could mean misaligned or broken switches. Schedule microwave repair service when you suspect problems with door switches.

• The main control board sometimes fails completely. On Amana models, especially the AMC series, you'll need to have an experienced service provider such as Sears Home Services replace the control board to ensure the appliance continues to work properly and safely.

• Thermal fuses blow when the microwave overheats. These safety devices prevent fires but don't reset themselves. The thermal fuse location varies by model, but they're usually near the magnetron or control board. Testing and replacement requires an appliance repair service call.

Microwave Runs But Won't Heat

This frustrating problem usually means the microwave turns on, the light works, and the turntable spins, but your food stays cold.

• The magnetron is almost always the culprit. This component actually generates the microwaves that heat your food. When it fails, everything else works but no heating occurs. Magnetron testing is definitely not a DIY job due to the extremely high voltages involved. Even unplugged, the capacitor can hold a dangerous charge. Schedule microwave repair service when you suspect that the magnetron is bad.

• The high-voltage diode works with the magnetron to produce microwaves. It converts household AC current to the DC power needed. When it fails, symptoms mimic magnetron failure - the microwave runs but doesn't heat. Testing requires a professional technician to avoid personal injury.

• Capacitors store electrical charge for the magnetron. A failed high-voltage capacitor prevents the magnetron from receiving enough power to generate microwaves. This is another issue that must be addressed by a service technician for safety.

• Don't overlook monitor switches. Amana uses several interlock switches that must engage properly when the door closes. Some prevent operation entirely when triggered incorrectly, while others specifically control the heating circuit. A switch might fail in a way that allows the turntable and light to work but prevents the magnetron from activating.

Control Panel Not Responding

Unresponsive buttons frustrate everyone.

• First, check if you've accidentally activated the child lock feature. Many Amana models, particularly the newer ACM series, lock when certain buttons are held. Check your manual for the specific unlock sequence, but it's often holding the Cancel button for 3-5 seconds.

• Connector problems develop over time. The ribbon cables connecting the touchpad to the control board work loose, especially in over-the-range models that experience cooking vibration from below. These flexible cables need to be properly seated in their connectors.

• Moisture affects touchpads over time. Steam from cooking gradually seeps behind the control panel and corrodes the connections. Complete power down for 30-60 minutes sometimes temporarily resolves this while the moisture evaporates. The long-term fix means replacing the membrane switch panel.

• The membrane switch panel itself wears out. This is the flexible circuit behind the buttons that registers your presses. After thousands of operations, the conductive material breaks down. Unfortunately, most Amana microwaves require replacing the entire control panel assembly, not just the membrane keypad.

• Control board issues sometimes cause specific button failures. If you notice a pattern, like numbers working but function buttons don't, that suggests a control board problem rather than touchpad failure. The control board is the "brain" of your microwave and processes button inputs.

Unusual Noises During Operation

New noises from your microwave usually mean trouble brewing.

• Loud humming or buzzing often comes from the magnetron. As they age, magnetrons sometimes make more noise before failing completely. A humming that intensifies when cooking but not during idle running points to magnetron problems.

• Cooling fan problems cause rattling or scraping. The fan runs whenever the microwave operates to prevent overheating. When its bearings wear out, you'll hear consistent noise during all operations. The fan assembly mounts near the control board or magnetron depending on your model.

• Turntable motors make grinding noises when their bearings deteriorate. This sound happens only during turntable rotation and seems to come from below the cooking floor. Accessing the motor means removing the glass tray, support, and often the bottom microwave panel.

• Loose parts create vibration noises. Mounting brackets, sheet metal panels, or internal components work loose over time, especially in over-the-range models that experience cooking vibration from below. Sometimes tightening cabinet screws solves the issue.

• Exhaust fans in over-the-range Amana models collect grease that unbalances them, causing wobble and noise. Remove the grease filters underneath and clean thoroughly. Sometimes removing the entire microwave from its mounting bracket becomes necessary for proper cleaning.

Display Problems

Dim or partial displays usually indicate problems with the display board or its power supply.

• If the microwave functions normally otherwise, the issue is likely isolated to the display components. Some Amana models use vacuum fluorescent displays that dim with age.

• Complete display failure with normal operation suggests a failed display board or broken connection. Have a technician check ribbon cables connecting the display to the main board before replacing components. These thin, fragile cables disconnect easily during cleaning or if the unit gets bumped.

• Random characters or digits appearing suggests control board problems. Power surges sometimes damage the processor that controls the display. Completely resetting by unplugging for several minutes might help, but usually indicates board replacement is needed.

• Flickering displays point to loose connections or power supply issues. The display panel receives power through small connectors that can work loose or develop corrosion. Sometimes having a technician reseat these connections resolves the problem without parts replacement.

Sparking or Arcing Inside

Sparking inside the microwave requires immediate attention.

• First, check for any metal accidentally left inside - twist ties, aluminum foil bits, or metal-rimmed dishes are common culprits. Even small metal pieces can cause dangerous arcing.

• The waveguide cover often causes sparking when damaged. This mica or plastic cover protects the opening where microwaves enter the cooking cavity. In Amana models, it's typically a rectangular piece on the side wall. If it's damaged or has food buildup, replace it immediately. Operating without this cover damages the microwave.

• Damaged cavity surfaces create spark points. Examine the interior walls for any chips, cracks, or worn spots in the coating that might expose metal underneath. Small damage sometimes can be repaired with microwave-safe touch-up paint, but significant damage means the unit should be replaced.

• Turntable support damage causes arcing. Check the center hub where the glass tray sits for any cracks or exposed metal. The drive coupling underneath can also spark if damaged. These plastic parts degrade over time and are inexpensive to replace.

• Charred or damaged power components sometimes cause internal arcing. If you've eliminated all other possibilities, the issue might be inside the high-voltage system - magnetron, waveguide, or high-voltage components. This requires professional service as these parts carry dangerous voltage.

Cooking Performance Issues

Uneven cooking happens for several reasons.

• First, check the turntable operation. It should rotate smoothly throughout the cooking cycle. Intermittent rotation causes obvious cold spots in food.

• Weakening magnetrons lose power gradually. As they age, they produce less microwave energy than when new. A simple test: heat exactly one cup of cold water. It should take about 2-3 minutes to reach boiling in a properly functioning 1000-watt microwave. Significantly longer times suggest reduced power.

• Power supply fluctuations affect cooking. If your home experiences brownouts or voltage drops, the microwave receives insufficient power for proper operation. Using other high-draw appliances on the same circuit simultaneously can cause this problem.

• Sensor cooking features depend on humidity sensors that detect steam from cooking food. When these sensors fail or get dirty, automatic cooking functions work poorly. The humidity sensor usually mounts on the side or top of the cooking cavity, appearing as a small vent or protrusion.

Turntable Not Spinning

Turntable problems seem minor but affect cooking quality.

• The drive motor underneath the cooking floor powers rotation. If it hums but doesn't turn, it's likely seized and needs replacement. Access usually requires removing the bottom microwave panel after taking out the glass tray and support.

• The coupler connects the motor to the turntable support. This small plastic piece breaks easily if the turntable gets overloaded. Look underneath the glass tray for a small plastic device that fits into the turntable motor shaft. Replacements are inexpensive and easy to install.

• Turntable guides get gunked up and stick. Remove the glass tray and the support ring underneath, then clean the center spindle and surrounding area thoroughly. Food buildup creates friction that prevents smooth rotation.

• Turntable motors sometimes get disconnected electronically. This requires removing the bottom panel of the case and checking wire connections to the motor, typically a simple connector that's worked loose during operation or cleaning.

Error Codes Understanding

Amana microwaves use error codes to help diagnose problems. While codes vary by model, some common ones include:

• Error F7 indicates touchpad/control panel problems. A button might be stuck or the membrane switch panel has failed. Try unplugging for several minutes to reset. If the error returns immediately, the control panel likely needs replacement.

• Error SE shows a stuck key or shorted touchpad circuit. Similar to F7 but specifically identifies the control interface as the problem rather than the main control board.

• Error F3 relates to temperature sensor failures, common in models with convection features. The sensor monitors cooking temperature and prevents overheating. Testing requires a technician to check resistance values according to your specific model's specifications.

• Error F2 usually means a stuck relay on the control board. Relays are switching components that control power to various functions. When they stick in one position, the error appears. Control board replacement typically resolves this.

• Error F1 indicates a major control system failure requiring professional service. This fundamental error means the processor cannot properly execute its programming.

When to Call for Service

Many Amana microwave repairs go beyond DIY territory. Anything involving the high voltage system - magnetron, capacitor, diode, transformer - carries serious risk. These components can hold lethal charges even when unplugged. Don’t risk your personal safety, schedule professional service for any internal microwave component failure.

Control board replacements sometimes need reprogramming after installation. Newer Amana models with digital controls may require specific initialization procedures that need technical knowledge or equipment.

Door alignment problems affecting seal integrity require professional assessment. Microwave doors must seal perfectly to prevent radiation leakage. Even minor misalignments can create safety issues that need proper resolution.

We repair Amana microwaves regularly and have the proper tools and safety equipment for complex repairs. When a problem goes beyond your comfort level, our technicians can handle it safely and efficiently.

Count on Sears Home Services for all of your Amana microwave repair needs.